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Submitted by Jeffrey Stilwell
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| Latin name |
Boa constrictor |
Maximum length |
6 - 8 feet (approx) |
| Native to |
Colombia |
Approximate life span |
20+ years |
GENERAL INFORMATION
This is one of the most popular pet snakes due to their great
temperament and beautiful markings. All the baby boas sold by
California Zoological Supply are captive or farm bred. The baby season
starts in January and ends around June. Boas are arboreal (tree
climbing) snakes, so provide lots of climbing branches so they can move
about. They are also nocturnal (active at night) so you will more than
likely not see them move much during the day. These are great animals
for anyone who wants something impressive and of a nice size but one
that doesn't get too large. Albino Boa Constrictors are also slowly
showing up on the market. The price is still prohibitive for most
hobbyists, but should decrease in a few years.
ENCLOSURE
The enclosure should be no shorter than ½
the snakes body length. Baby Boas can live in a 20-gallon aquarium for
up to a year but be prepared to get a larger enclosure later on. Boas
are notorious escape artists so your enclosure can never be too secure.
To avoid respiratory infections, the enclosure should provide plenty of
ventilation. A secure hiding place is also important.
SUBSTRATE
As a substrate you can use Zoo Med
REPTI-BARK™, Zoo Med CAGE CARPET or pine shavings. But DO NOT, under
any circumstances, use cedar shavings! Its oils are toxic to reptiles.
The substrate should remain dry.
TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY
Daytime temperatures 84 - 90°f. Do not let nighttime temperatures drop
below 78°f. If a large water bowl is used, the humidity level should be
fine. Never allow water to condense on the glass. The cause of
condensation could be attributed to an overly wet enclosure, inadequate
ventilation, or both.
HEATING
Reptiles need to be able to regulate their body temperature, so a
temperature range must be provided. Use a Zoo Med REPTITHERM® UNDER
TANK HEATER (U.T.H.). Leave it on 24 hours a day. UTH's take a few
hours to reach their optimal temperature. For easy heat control, use a
Zoo Med REPTI-TEMP™ RHEOSTAT in conjunction with the U.T.H's. Always
use at least one thermometer. Two thermometers are optimal in all
reptile and amphibian enclosures, placing one thermometer on the cooler
side, and one on the warmer side. A Zoo Med DELUXE ANALOG MIN/MAX
THERMOMETER works great to show the high and low temperatures in a
24-hour period.
LIGHTING
UVB is not a necessity, but not harmful. If
desired, use a Zoo Med REPTISUN™ 2.0 fluorescent 8 - 12 hours a day.
The UVA spectrum this bulb provides is beneficial to the psychological
well-being of reptiles. All reptiles and amphibians need a photo period
(light cycle). A plug in timer (for your white lights only, do not use
a timer for your heating devices) works well to develop a regular photo
period of 8 - 10 hours of light, 14 - 16 hours of dark. Reptiles and
amphibians cannot see the red light spectrum, so a Zoo Med NOCTURNAL
INFRARED HEAT LAMP is ideal for nighttime viewing.
FOOD & WATER
Feed your boa rodents. Single food
item should not be larger than snake's girth. Baby Boa Constrictors
should be fed weekly. A mouse that has just got its hair (known as
fuzzies or hoppers) will be sufficient. Increase the size of the food
as the snake grows. It is best to feed pre-killed food items. If the
snake gets a bad strike on the rodent, the rodent may be able to turn
its body in order to bite the snake. Severe damage to the snake or even
death may occur. Keeping a supply of pre-killed rodents in the freezer
will ensure a steady supply of food in case obtaining them becomes a
problem. Be sure to thaw rodents at room temperature before feeding to
your snake. Do not use the microwave! The internal temperature of the
rodent may become extremely hot and cause severe internal burns to your
snake even if part of the rodent is still frozen. Do not feed Boas in
their living quarters as this may condition them to strike at you when
you want to pick them up. Do not attempt to pick up any snake with the
scent of other animals on your hands or clothing. This may entice the
snake to strike in hunger. For water, provide a large, sturdy bowl
which cannot tip over and make sure water is always fresh and clean.
NOTES
Always wash your hands before and immediately
after handling reptiles and amphibians. Never leave live food long term
with reptiles & amphibians. They can inflict severe harm or even
kill your pet. If your animals take some time to eat or you feed them
at night, leave a slice of potato, carrot, or dry dog food for the live
food items to eat. Your local pet shop is an ideal source for reptile
and amphibian related books and supplies. Please make sure you read and
become familiar with any instructions provided with reptile support
products you may purchase.
For further information on reptiles and amphibians we
recommend you read REPTILES MAGAZINE and THE VIVARIUM. California
Zoological Supply hopes you have enjoyed reading this reference sheet
on Boa Constrictors. We hope that our guidelines will assist you with
the care or possible purchase of your new pet.
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Reptiles 
